Propagation
Grow More Plants from Cuttings
Two reliable methods — water and soil — plus the node basics that make or break a cutting.
Water Propagation
Place a node cutting in a clean glass or jar with enough water to submerge the node but keep the leaves dry. Set it in bright, indirect light and change the water every 5–7 days to prevent bacteria. Roots usually appear within 2–4 weeks; transfer to soil once they reach 1–2 inches long. Water propagation lets you monitor root development at a glance — ideal for beginners.
Soil Propagation
Dip a node cutting in rooting hormone (optional but speeds things up), then plant directly into a moist, well-draining mix — a 50/50 blend of perlite and potting soil works well for most species. Cover loosely with a clear plastic bag or a propagation dome to keep humidity high, and place in bright indirect light. Disturb the cutting as little as possible for the first 3–4 weeks. Soil cuttings tend to establish more smoothly because roots acclimate directly to their growing medium.
Node Basics
A node is the joint on a stem where a leaf or aerial root is attached. It contains the meristematic tissue needed to produce new roots and shoots. Cut just below the node — 0.5 to 1 cm is enough. A cutting without a node will not root. For vining plants like Monstera and Pothos, including an aerial root alongside the node speeds rooting considerably.
Division
Plants that grow in clumps — Peace Lily, Snake Plant, and many ferns — are best propagated by division at repotting time. Gently separate the root ball into two or more sections, each with roots and at least one growing point, and pot them individually. Division is the most reliable method for plants that do not produce usable stem cuttings.
Propagation Difficulty by Species
A rough guide — actual results depend on season, conditions, and cutting quality.
Each species page has a propagation section with step-by-step instructions specific to that plant.